another day, another parque

looking towards the monument in Parque España which commemorates the arrival of Spanish exiles back in the 40's

negotiating the price of fresh pulque

and then there are those who think México is the greatest land of all...

Vera Cruz

I've finally managed to get out of the bustling city and visit a state I'd never been to.  Veracruz is a lush place, mostly known for its port city, but there are many a charming town to visit further inland.  The vast amounts of greenery shrouded by evening fog gave it all a more magical feel.

Upon arrival in Coscomatepec, we were greeted by a regional dance contest.  In contrast to the scary masks, these dancers wear florid arangements and dance a happy little jig.

abandoned headpieces

one of the many Monday Market stalls, with a special helper

Alpatlahuac's hilltop church

Further uphill, a fantasy getaway

El Pico de Orizaba is perpetually covered by snow and is México's tallest volcano.

brindis

Cheers to a happy holiday season =)

 

Dinner consisted of shrimp soup followed by a stuffed turkey...ñam ñam

los pastores a Belén

The nine days before Christmas are called the novena and they are the days full of posadas: celebrations held by various households to simulate Joseph and Mary's trip to Bethlehem and their subsequent search for somewhere to stay.  The guests are split into two groups:  those who wander out into the street chanting traditional songs and then come back to the house to ask for a room to stay, while the owners of the house (the hosts of the party) pretend to deny entry and then finally, allow the entry of these peregrinos. 

Once the pilgrims have been granted entry to the house, there is a prayer session to honor the Holy Family and the approaching arrival of Jesus.  Afterwards, the party begins!!  There is tons of food, dancing and best of all, PIÑATAS!!!!

chuladas de maíz prieto

Christmastime = Christmas school assemblies

My niece did me proud!  First, she sang Rudolph-the-Red-Nosed Reindeer and then Adeste Fideles, both to perfection.  I think she's gonna be a polyglot =)

Jingle them bells!!

I want a daughter. Just. Like. Her.

Moments like these make me miss my mommy.

more morisco

If you didn't get enough before, here are more pics of the Kiosco Morisco to delight your senses =)

las comadres

mini comadres

toque de morisco

Many people may not believe it, but México is a country full of immigrants, with a significant amount of them in Mexico City.  There is a Chinatown and a Little Italy, as well as Jewish and French cemeteries.  However, even with this knowledge, I was intrigued by the discovery of a Moorish kiosk in the old neighborhood of Santa María la Ribera.  Originally built as México's entry for the 1902 World Fair in St. Louis, this iron structure has become the main landmark for this historical part of the city...and is now my own fave spot for people-gazing =)

Let's make music, ¿sí?

El Chopo y la Church

As I slowly begin to master the art of travelling by peseros (vans that have been gutted to hold up to ten passengers, weaving in & out of Mexico's side streets) in this crazy city, I begin to stumble upon more and more interesting sites that are not found in my guidebooks...and that, after all, is the true definition of getting to know your city =)

First is El Chopo, a university-funded museum near the historical center of the city.  To be honest, I wasn't too crazy about the exhibits, but I was impressed by the building...it kinda reminded me of the Eiffel Tower =) 

Museo Universitario El Chopo

Next, I stumbled upon a very unusual church:  I say unusual because here in México, the majority of structures built during the 19th century favor the Baroque school.  However, the  Iglesia de la Sagrada Familia is more in the Byzantine style and very pleasing to the eye...

Iglesia de la Sagrada Familia

My fave feature of the church were the ginormous and gorgeous windows.

Navidad is nigh

In Spanish-speaking countries, no Christmas décor is complete without a nativity scene.  Ahh, but these are no ordinary nativity scenes:  the ones assembled in Hispanic countries often take years to put together.  Some include a real-water river, others have a patch of desert somewhere, and ALL of them include a figurine of the devil.  The demonic statuette is oftentimes in a cave in a far corner, but it serves to remind us that the battle between good and evil is never truly over.  On a curious note:  In Spain, the nativity scenes also include a demonic figure which is later purposely broken so as to bring good luck in the New Year. 

la Guadalupana

December 12th is finally here and with it comes the celebration of México's patron saint, the Virgencita de Guadalupe.  She is indeed a mother figure to many Mexicans, and the prime example to follow for devout women.  As the clock struck midnight, the townspeople gaily began singing Las Mañanitas to honor the woman they know and love.

fireworks to announce the approach of midnight and the beginning of the ceremony

concrete jungle

Almost got my camera confiscated after this shot =/

portal

The entrance of a pretty church in Colonia Del Valle.

colación

One of the many benefits of living with a nutritionist is that she encourages snacks between meals.  Working in a store only serves to increase one's cravings.  Lucky for me, Mexicans love their fruits and veggies, but they love them tenfold if/when they're drenched in lime juice, salt and paprika.  I especially recommend eating cucumbers in this fashion.  Here we have some honeydew...á la mexicana.

la hora del amor

This afternoon brought with it a cozy stroll through a lovely (albeit sunken) park:  El Parque Hundido is perhaps the oldest park in México D.F., built during the late 19th century complete with replicas of Olmec, Maya, Zapotec and Toltec monuments.  Although it is located in a noisy business district of the city, it is a quiet haven for lovers of all ages ;)

in God we trust

Mexicans are nothing if not a devout people. They place an incredible amount of trust in God and the Virgencita.  Thus, it comes as no surprise to me to see rosaries hanging on rearview mirrors, especially in a city where driving is a lethal activity to partake in.  Even so, I found the following display of reverence a tad excessive...